Day one of the Monkey Run started with an expanse of three-foot-deep loose sand. After an hour of digging and wipeouts, we finally found packed dirt that led to what locals called a “main road.”

This patchwork pavement stretched a single lane, serving two-way traffic that we shared with overloaded semis in a continual game of chicken. And then the sandstorm hit. Luckily, we found shelter at a Moroccan roadside attraction while we waited out the storm before continuing to Tinghir.

On day two, we left early to ride Gorges Du Todgha: a series of limestone river canyons in the High Atlas Mountains with incredible views. Thrilled with the morning's ride, we set out on a goat trail to ride the most remote and technically challenging roads we could find. Taking in the epic mountain views with no trace of civilization for hours, our group suffered the first moto breakdown.

Miraculously, two goat herders appeared, and they understood our distress despite the language barrier. Soon after, the only person in the village with a driver’s license piled our bikes into a minivan and drove us back to Tinghir. Thankfully, the local mechanic was able to quickly get us back up and running.

On day three, and leaving Tinghir for the second time, we had a sense of urgency and took a shortcut to reach Dades Gorge – Morocco's most photographed stretch of tarmac. With over 50 hairpin turns within a mile and a half, it’s a rider's dream.

Our “shortcut” ended up adding an extra four hours to our riding day. A flood had washed the road away, so we instead tried navigating a dried-up riverbed, which proved to be the most challenging off-road riding I had ever done. The only way through was to let go and let the bike take over and find its way. To this day, it’s the most fun I have had on a motorcycle.

As the sun was setting, we finally reached Dades Gorge. The light was a dusty pink and gold, adding a dream-like quality to the red rocks of the gorge. Once over the top of the gorge, I was ready to open it up and was now speeding down the backside at 38 mph! This unknown road with blind hairpin turns and my feet only inches from the pavement gave me the test I was looking for. At that moment, I felt most in tune with my motorcycle.

For our fourth day, we had planned an easy ride over a mountain into a remote country village. What we didn’t know was that the maps also charted roads that were going to be made. We climbed the mountain through road construction, using backhoe tracks as our guide. It was grueling work that went on for hours. The 50cc was not enough motor to handle the elevation and deep mud. Thankfully, the foreman offered to take us and our motos up to the summit.

Grateful for the ride to the top and thrilled at the meandering road down the backside, I thought this was our final reward, but I was dead wrong. The easy country cruising turned into four more brutal mountains to climb, with the last one the most unforgiving of all. We were tired and our spirits dimmed, but the only option was to keep going.

We reached the top right as the sun was setting, and we could see a mountain village in the valley. After a dark ride down a steep mountain, nerves shot, a family generously offered us a room, a warm shower, and dinner for 20 dollars. It felt like the most luxurious accommodation I had ever encountered.

On the morning of day five, we were reentering civilization and groomed roads. It was getting warmer; the sun was shining, and the joy of accomplishment flooded my body. With a day of easy riding comes a day of tough reflection and the “wind therapy” of an open road. Riding more challenging terrain didn’t leave room to think about much more than enjoying and getting through your ride. Now, my mind was trying to untangle the knots of my life.

At the forefront was the separation from my husband, who is from Morocco. I came to view this trip as my way to explore the country and to say my goodbyes. These revelations hit me as we rode right by the turn-off to his family’s farm. The sense of relief, grief, and happiness was overwhelming.

Much like this journey where pain and pleasure mixed to be one of the greatest weeks of my life, this same road showed me that my life would also hold those same dynamics. Much like climbing the never-ending mountain, it was time to let go and keep going forward. The only path was through.